
- Do you see the towers around?! You haven't seen anything yet!…
"Eureka-Eureka-Eureka!"
This was the first cry of the monkey Kiko as he watched from the television of a Sarandjo bar that the National Historical Museum will put the lock on for at least 4 years.
An idea flashed in his brain, the same as the ideas that flash to geniuses, perhaps like the one that sparks Galileo Galilei to leave the University of Pisa and find the sky, or like Christopher Columbus to whom it sparks to leave Europe to discover America.
Even our missionary decided to leave the port of Saranda and start working as a guide in the capital, which, as a hit song from the 2000s says, "Anything can happen, we live in Tiron!"
A mixed group of foreigners who happened to be in Tirana for a peace summit about the war in the Middle East were Kiko's first "clients".
The first meeting place was Skënderbej Square, where the National Historical Museum is in front of it.
Here, - continued Kiko, - the 100-year history of Tirana is summarized. To my right you see the Russian influence, the Palace of Culture, in front of me you see the Chinese influence (15 katshi hotel), and then to my left is the Italian influence (government buildings and the National Bank).
But the most indelible traces in "Skënderbej" square, - said Kiko, - are the influence of the oligarchs.
- Do you see the towers around?! You haven't seen anything yet!…
As they circled the National History Museum like dancing dervishes, Kiko said a meditation would be performed to understand the history of that building.
- I have good news and bad news! The bad thing is that the museum will be closed for 1460 days, but the good thing is that it will open again on March 28, 2028, at 18:15. There is a debate because the government has asked to open much earlier at 17:30, but the company that won the tender says that it has accurate accounts and cannot move from the deadline.
Here you are free to ponder the past, present and future of this country that has carved the path of history with sword in hand.
While the tangle of traffic and horns were ruining the meditative atmosphere, Kiko explained the situation saying that anything can happen in front of Tirana's circus.
- Where are we not seeing it? - asked an Asian summitist tourist.
-It used to be a building, but the echo has remained! - said Kiko, explaining the closing of the circus with the fact that the competition increased so much in recent years that all acrobatic activity was monopolized in the parliament.
- Anyway, a beautiful tower will be built there and in honor of the old circus there will be a bar called "Bar Restaurant Akrobacia".
The second stop of our stop will be the National Theatre.
As they walked further, the tourists stopped in front of another closed construction site.
It surprised him how between the buildings of an Italian style, a hole was opened.
Në fillim menduan se ishte duke u ngritur ndonjë instalacion për të treguar sesi varrosen regjimet diktatoriale, por Kiko i shpjegoi se ishte gropa ku thuhet se do bëhet një teatër.
-Po të ishit me fat dhe të vinit 4 vite përpara, do të shihnit godinën e Teatrit pasi atëherë i vunë rruspat. Sipas opozitës, pasi të vijnë në pushtet ai do të ringrihet: “aty ku ishte dhe ashtu si ishte”, ndërsa sipas qeverisë Teatri do të jetë një gjë e pa parë.
Megjithatë këtij kryeqyteti vërtet i mungon teatri, por jo estrada pasi çdo të enjte e ka zgjidhur vetë politika këtë çështje.
Shpjegimet e Kikos ishin me fjalë të thjeshta, të shpejta dhe të qarta.
Teksa i printe grupit samitist tek Biblioteka Kombetare i bëri thirrje mos afroheshin për të hyrë.
Këtu nuk lejohet hyrja e majmunëve pasi ka dekada që nuk ka vend për lexuesit. Vendin e tyre e kanë zënë libra të shumtë historikë për lashtësinë e shqipes, libra për heronjtë e panumërt të këtij vendi. Një vend të posaçëm zënë volumet për historinë e krahinave, fshatrave, fiseve dhe familjeve.
Ecejaket nëpër Tiranë vijonin.
Stacioni i tretë i qëndrimit ishte Galeria e Arteve.
-Flakni përtacinë dhe ndizniimagjinatën se çfarë ka aty brenda pasi galeria është mbyllur para 3 vjetësh për ristrukturim, por do të hapet mandatin e 4-t të qeverisë, -tha Kiko duke i ftuar të kacaviren nëpër hekurishtet e instalacionit “Reja”.
Një turist samitist italian refuzoi ta dëgjojë më majmunin tonë dhe në mënyrë krejt të papritur thërriti:
-Muzeu mbyllur, Biblioteka mbyllur, cirku mbyllur, galeria mbyllur, teatri mbyllur, kinemaja mbyllur, çfarë dreqin do të shohim ne këtu?
-Hmm, ju italianëve ju zgjat durimi pak ndaj keni shpikur makaronat që përgatiten shpejt! Mos u mërzitni, nesër do t’iu tregoj pse nuk ka nevojë ky vend për muze, -tha Kiko.
Në fund të ditës, ndërsa dielli lëshoi rrezet e fundit mbi sheshin “Skënderbej” dhe turistët përgatisin postimet e tyre në Instagram të mbushura me thënie të mençura dhe selfie me të, Kiko mori frymë dhe u mbush me të gjithë ajrin e freskët të marsit.
“Kanë mesuar më shumë se ç’mund të kishin imagjinuar, por nesër është meseleja. Nesër…”
***
Samitistët fjetën shpejt, pasi ecejaket nëpër Tiranë i kishin lodhur tepërmi. Në ditën e dytë të turit, majmuni Kiko i priste tek “Bar Çakalli” krah operas ku në duar mbante një dosje.
-Sot nga ky vend ju do të mësoni se pse nuk duhen muzetë në Shqipëri. Pa vështroni bri jush Skënderbeun, heroin kombëtar me kalë dhe me shpatë! Po aty, para tij ka qenë “Baba Stalini” me kapotë e mustaqe. Bulevardi që keni përpara në drejtim të veriut, sot quhet “Zogu i I”, dje quhej “Bulevardi Stalin” dhe pardje “Bulevardi Musolini”. Me baba Stalinin na lidh edhe një zonë në Tiranë, ajo e 21 dhjetorit, dita e datëlindjes së tij.
Samitistët qëndronin të ngrirë përballë rrëfimeve të Kikos s’i të ishin statuja mbi sheshin “Skënderbej”.
-The Palace of Culture that you see on my left, only the first floor was built by the Soviets, the second floor was built by the Chinese, while we finished the third floor with our own forces. Meanwhile, where you see the Museum used to be the Tirana City Hall building.
Along the Boulevard on the left side you see the Ministry of Justice, but it used to be Hotel Arbëria. A little further down is the train station, no station, no train, no rail and no track as we are waiting for that too.
The Vatican embassy was the Cuban embassy, while the residence of the Italian ambassador was the "Lenin-Stalin" museum. The Ministry of Education used to be a Soviet embassy. While the Ministry of Culture was Kinostudio.
Today we will see another museum, the "House of Leaves", which was the headquarters of State Security surveillance, but during the Kingdom and the Second World War it was a private gynecological clinic. While the General Directorate of Taxes has been Martenitet. The military hospital used to be the horse stable of the Italian army. Likewise the Police Academy.
"Here, every building groans from the weight of history" - said Kiko while starting the explanation from the southern side of the large Boulevard.
- What you see is the Presidency, but it once served as the Russian embassy, a work that they could not finish after the fraternal relations were broken.
-While this large building that appears to be a university was a fascist lieutenant colonel and then a former German command.
This beautiful building, which today is not understood what it is, was once the Dajti hotel, the opposite side is Taiwan. Albania does not recognize Taiwan, but there is a bar/area with this name.
If you open google map now, you will remember that you are in the building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, but this here used to be a hotel for Chinese employees. As soon as they finished building the hotel, relations with China broke down.
In front of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, you see the State Police Directorate, but here was the Arbana hotel, while the Court of Appeal was once the police station no. 1 and before that the fire brigade of Tirana.
The Parliament was the former royal palace, while the prince's palace was for a time the pioneers' palace.
Kiko continued with the explanation of the history of the buildings, streets and alleys of Tirana and decided to end the day by explaining the meaning of the "Black Bird" to the tourists.
After explaining the meaning in detail, he spread his paws and asked:
- Do you understand now why museums are not needed here? In this country there is no need for closed museums, we are museums in the open sky.
Lini një Përgjigje